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Each visit to a lighthouse stirs us in a different way. The majesty of Hatteras; the idyllic settings of Assateague or Montauk; the splendor of Portland; each evokes a special response.
Sometimes getting there is half the fun. Sometimes, it's having to work to reach a light that makes the reward so fulfilling. Anyone who has ever walked the miles of soft sand to reach Race Point Light on Cape Cod or braved the elements on the wind-swept spit of sand which attaches Cedar Island Light to the mainland can attest that merely getting there is quite an achievement.
Equally rewarding is finding a light that you are not even certain exists. Such was our goal as we sought to find the light tower at Fort Wadsworth on Staten Island on a recent lighthouse trek. As I told my wife, "there used to be a light there..." And that was good enough for her.
Although we'd crossed the Verrazano Narrows Bridge many times and had seen what appeared to be an earthen bunker on the Staten Island side, we'd never stopped at the fort, which is run by the National Park Service. The last exit on Staten Island before the big bridge is Lilly Pond Road. From there, the signs to the fort were easy to follow. It took us less than five minutes from Route 278 to the park entrance.
Once inside the fort we found an ample parking area. Visitors are treated to a breath taking view of Manhattan and what was once the longest suspension bridge in the world, the Verrazano. Even if there were no lighthouses to be found, this spectacular view would make this trip worthwhile!
Fort Wadsworth is made up of numerous old gun batteries. The most prominent, Battery Weed, is directly below the scenic overlook. And there, amidst the near perfect symmetry that makes up this embankment, is the Battery Weed Light tower. A leisurely walk down a winding path to the water led us to the light tower under the bridge and afforded us a view daily commuters never get to see. Old wooden doors and stone passageways entice visitors to explore the grounds.
Curator for the Gateway National Park Commission, Felice Ciccione, informed us that the battery was named for Steven Weed, a Union soldier who lost his life at the Battle of Gettysburg. The light on Battery Weed replaced the old "ginger-bread-style" lighthouse that once stood at nearby Fort Thompkins as an aid to ships entering New York Harbour through "The Narrows."
Work to build Battery Weed Light was begun in 1902. Its red and white beacon shone out for the first time in March of 1903. The lighthouse and a foghorn shone out for the first time in March of 1903. The lighthouse and a foghorn continued to guide mariners through the Narrows until the Verrazano Bridge made the station obsolete in 1964. Today, the gun battery still maintains its formidable appearance, though the cannons are long since gone. The cupola, which appears somewhat out of place on the high walls, has long been without the protection of glass. Without its fourth order lens, the rusting hulk is a sad monument to another time, and might soon be placed on the ever-growing Lighthouse Digest "Doomsday List."
Visitors may arrange to tour the Fort by calling the Parks Service at 718-354-4500.
The Gateway National Parks web site may be accessed at www.nps.gov/gate.
This story appeared in the May 1999 edition of Lighthouse Digest Magazine. For subscription information about the print edition, click here.
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